3rd
We arrived in Quito after an uneventful flight. We were met at the airport by Hosé who took us by mini-bus to our hotel (hotel of the rabbit). Hosé was our guide for throughout our trip (apart from Galapagos and Sacha) and he was a phenomenal birder.
4th
We made the first of what were to be many early starts. We had breakfast at 05:00 before we joined our mini-bus and headed for Antisana. The drive took us through the sprawl of Quito and then through villages where many of the buildings appeared to be half-built. We made a series of stops that allowed us to explore different habitats from village edge to the paramo. The paramo was not as wild as I had expected. There were signs that the grassland was maintained through burning and there were large flocks of sheep. In fact besides horses and sheep we failed to see any mammals at all.
The highlights included good views of Andean Condor, Ecuadorian Hillstar (including one nest building) and a Sword-billed Hummingbird.
5th
We enjoyed a leisurely start to the day, complete with a proper breakfast. We had good views of Rufous-collared Sparrows on the lawn (a species which would soon become tiresome) plus excellent views of the hotel’s black rabbit. At 07:30 we were taken to the airport for our flight to Galapagos. At the airport our luggage was checked for food etc before it could be checked in properly. The plane left Quito at 09:30, there was a 40 minute stop at Guayaquil before we arrived at Baltra at 12:40.
After the formalities at Baltra airport which included the payment of our $100 ‘entrance fee’ we were taken by bus to Baltra harbour. Here we joined ‘Yate Fragata’ which was to be our home for the next week.
After stowing our luggage we headed off to North Seymour island. We made a dry landing and were there from 15:30 to 18:00. It was a good start to the trip with an excellent range of species with Swallow-tailed Gulls being outstanding. We also had good views of White-vented Storm Petrels behind the boat.After 21:00 several sharks and a sea snake were seen off the stern where the boat’s lights illuminated the water.
6th
From our panga on the way to Tower we saw several Manta Rays. We made a dry landing at Prince Philip’s steps and were on the island from 08:15 to 10:15. We walked through ‘holly tree’ woodland and saw breeding Red-footed Booby, Nazca Booby, Great Frigate Bird and Wedge-tailed Storm Petrel. Although we didn’t know it at the time we should have looked for Galapagos Fur Seal at Prince Philip’s steps. This was a species that we failed to see.
Around lunchtime, when we were back on the boat, we watched 2 Red-billed Tropic Birds prospecting on the cliffs. Later parties of up to 8 Tropic Birds, calling loudly, flew repeatedly over the boat. The call recalled that of a Sandwich Tern with a more manic quality.
In the afternoon we made a wet landing on Darwin’s Beach. More good views of Red-footed Booby, Nazca Booby, Great Frigatebird, Swallow-tailed Gull and 2 Lava Gulls. We also had good views of a Cactus Finch feeding (appropriately enough) on a cactus.
After 21:30, when the boat was out at sea and it was dark outside, I watched 2 Swallow-tailed Gulls flying alongside the boat from my cabin window. They were faintly illuminated by the boat’s lights and it was possible to observe them as they maintained a constant position above the water (c10 feet) and occasionally dropped to the surface to feed. They gave a strange call which was what originally drew my attention to them. It was rather like a finger being drawn along the teeth of a comb and was given every 10 to 20 seconds. Apparently, this call may be used for echo-locating prey.
7th
The night was spent moored off Bartolome near Pinnacle Rock. Before breakfast a scan of the rocks produced c10 Galapagos Penguins. This was something of a relief as our itinerary made this species potentially missable. At 07:45 we made a dry landing and walked to the top of Bartolome. It was extremely hot, but the view from the top was worth the effort. At 09:15 we made a wet landing on the nearby beach where Galapagos Sealions and Marine Iguanas were the main attractions.
The journey from Bartolome to Santa Cruz was productive. Phalaropes were the commonest species with hundreds seen. These appeared to be mainly Red-necked Phalaropes in large flocks which could be heard calling as the boat flushed them off the sea, but several Grey Phalaropes were also seen. An adult Pomarine Skua and a Galapagos Petrel were notable sightings and a group of 3 Tropicbirds were seen on the sea.
At 14:30 we made a wet landing at Bachas Beach on Santa Cruz. The beach was covered in the tracks of turtles which visit the beach to lay their eggs. Highlights included Great Blue Heron 1, Greater Flamingo 4, Whimbrel 1, Black-winged Stilt 1, Sanderling 1, Least Sandpiper 1, Semi-palmated Plover 1 and Lava Gull 3. No Swallow-tailed Gulls were seen. A single unidentified dragonfly was seen here.
The journey along the Santa Cruz coast produced a single Tropicbird and small numbers of Swallow-tailed Gulls.
8th
The night was spent moored off South Plaza – a small island off Santa Cruz. At 06:30 we made a dry landing and stayed until 07:45. Highlights included Tropicbird 1 (on nest), Turnstone 2, Wandering Tattler 1, Kelp Gull 2, Swallow-tailed Gull, Cactus Finch 2 and Small Ground Finch 5. Land Iguana c5 and Marine Iguana c5 were seen.
The journey to Puerto Ayora, the main town on Santa Cruz, produced fewer birds than the previous day. Highlights included White-vented Storm Petrel up to 10 following the boat (smaller numbers than yesterday), Audubon’s Shearwater 10s and Brown Noddy several.
A walk through Puerto Ayora from the pier to the gates of the Charles Darwin Station produced Great Blue Heron 1, Striated Heron 1, Cattle Egret 40+, Whimbrel 3, Turnstone c5, Ani 1, Galapagos Flycatcher 4. Tony and I decided to spend more time in Puerto Ayora and so we did not bother to go back to the yacht for lunch.
After lunch we rejoined the rest of the group and visited the Charles Darwin Station. We were shown compounds containing young Giant Tortoises of various races which had been reared at the Station and others containing adult Giant Tortoises again of various races and some where the race was yet to be determined. Highlights included ‘Lonesome George’ (a male representing the only known individual from Isla Pinta), a mockingbird sitting on the shell of a Giant Tortoise and 5 large male Giant Tortoises each about 150 years old. The male Giant Tortoises were lethargic, but one when tickled under the chin by our guide responded by stretching its neck upwards. The others barely moved.
Around the refreshment shop we were able to watch 5 species of Darwin finches at close range. The species were Large Ground Finch 2, Medium Ground Finch 5, Small Ground Finch 5, Common Cactus Finch 2, Large Tree Finch 1 and Small Tree Finch 2.
Our guide Diago left the boat at this point and was replaced by Luis. We were pleased by this substitution. Diago was frequently unhelpful and had misled us regarding seeing Galapagos Fur Seals and wild Giant Tortoises. We should have seen both, but ended up seeing neither.
At c21:00 we watched a juvenile Striated Heron fishing from the anchor rope of our yacht. It overbalanced several times, but was eventually successful. It plunged into the water and then flew to the back of the boat with a large fish. The heron stood with the wriggling fish in its bill for some time as if uncertain what to do with it. Finally, it swallowed it.
9th
Before breakfast we watched 2 Marine Iguanas swimming in the harbour; my first sightings of this species in the water. Several Whimbrel were heard which sounded different to those in Europe – possibly higher pitched. Later a Yellow Warbler was seen on the boat although it was not obvious as to what had attracted it.
In Puerto Ayora we saw Cattle Egret 20, Wandering Tattler 1, Turnstone 8 and Lava Gull 4. Plus, we had excellent views of a large Marine Iguana resting on the pavement at the base of the pier. We then joined a bus up to the Santa Rosa National Park.
In Santa Rosa National Park we walked alongside 2 pit craters and a collapsed lava tube. Highlights included Galapagos Dove several, Vermillion Flycatcher 1, Galapagos Flycatcher and several species of Darwin finch.
Back on the boat we travelled to Barrington Bay on Sante Fe. We arrived late and did not have much time for the walk behind the beach. Despite we this we managed to see a single Sante Fe Land Iguana which was a relief. This individual was particularly yellow. The water in the bay was very clear and allowed several turtles to be seen on or near the bottom.
10th
The day was spent visiting 2 areas on Hood and was one of the best days of the trip. We started at Puntas Suarez (08:00 to 11:30). Before we left the boat the only Common Tern of the trip was seen. Once ashore we saw 5 pairs of Waved Albatross, including 2 pairs displaying. The Hood Mockingbirds were very inquisitive with birds landing on my camera and my shoulder. The Marine Iguanas were the brightest we saw and were red and green in colour.
While travelling to our next landing we saw a pair of Green Turtles mating.
We landed at Gardner Bay (14:45 – 17:00). Here there were more inquisitive Hood Mockingbirds. They took suntan lotion from my feet and landed on my camera and camera bag.
Back on the boat a further surprise awaited us. While watching the illuminated area off the stern between 21:00 and 21:30 we watched a Sealion catching sea snakes. In 30 minutes we saw it take 7. The sea snakes seemed to be attracted to the light and we probably saw about 20.
11th
Our obliging captain took us in close to Champion Island at 06:00. After a short wait we managed to see 4 Charles Mockingbirds.
The rest of the day was spent around Floreana. We started off at Punta Cormorant. On and around the lagoon we saw Lava Heron 2, Greater Flamingo c40, Stilt 4, Western Sandpiper 4, Least Sandpiper 10, a Lesser Yellowlegs, Diamond Sting Ray c5 and 2 unidentified dragonflies. Circuiting the Devil’s Crown (a circular group of rocks) by boat we saw Audubon’s Shearwater c20, Red-billed Tropicbird 2 on nests and Swallow-tailed Gull c10. Also, from the boat I saw a Maderian Petrel a species that I missed at Bartolome. At Post Office Bay, as well as the ‘international post office’, we saw Galapagos Penguin 4, Lava Heron 3, Grey Plover and Turnstone 3+.
The day ended with 3 Sealions off the back of the boat at 19:45.
12th
The final destination of the cruise was Black Turtle Grove (Santa Cruz) which we explored between 06:15 and 07:45. The Green Turtles were very wary and only put their heads out of the water for a second or two. This was despite the panga being propelled by oar rather than by motor. We had excellent view of the turtles underwater as they swam past and under the boat. The cove was shallow as it was low tide and was bordered by thick mangrove woodland. The wildlife included White-vented Storm Petrel 3, Great White Egret, Great Blue Heron 2, Lava Heron 4, Blue-footed Booby c10, Stilt 3, Whimbrel 2, Brown Pelican, Green Turtle 15 – 25, White-tip Shark 3, Diamond Sting Ray several and Eagle Ray several.
Back at Baltra harbour at 09:00 we saw Blue-footed Booby c5, frigate bird sp c5, Brown Noddy c10 and a Marine Iguana. Finally, at Baltra airport we saw a Lava Lizard.
It was then back to the thin air and smog of Quito, plus drizzle.
For the Galapagos this was the quiet season for tourist numbers. Despite this it seemed busy. Wherever we anchored there were usually several other boats present and once ashore we usually met other groups.
13th
Around the hotel I noted several R C Sprigs (Rufous-crowned Sparrows), several Eared Doves and a Sparkling Violet Ear from the bathroom before it was time to head to the airport.
The journey to Sacha Lodge involved a flight to Coca (11:00 - 11:30), an open-sided bus ride, a 50 mile boat journey down the Napo River (13:00 – 15:00), a 30-minute walk along a boardwalk and a rather hairy dugout canoe ride across a lake. It was only at this point that we discovered that half of the group couldn’t swim.
Birding along the boardwalk produced a staked-out roosting Great Potoo and a pair of roosting Tropical Screech-Owls.
The lodge complex was impressive, consisting of open, thatched buildings on wooden legs set amongst the flooded forest. The main building housed a lounge, bar and restaurant and had walkways leading out to thatched accommodation huts.
Our guide during our stay was Oscar Tapuy. He was excellent, but despite his best efforts birding was hard work. Rather like the Galapagos guests were not allowed to wander on the extensive network of forest trails without a guide.
The day ended with a brief night walk during which we connected with a roosting Crested Owl and a Buff-bellied Screech-Owl. At dusk we headed for the edge of the lake where the hoped for fishing bats and nightjars failed to materialise.
14th
This was a day of mud, sweat and ants.
We were up at 04:20, breakfasted at 04:45 and were out with Oscar at 05:15. We were joined by another staff member who carried our packed lunches and Oscar’s scope. It was a long hard day as we struggled to come to terms with the heat and humidity. During the day we visited an island in the Napo River and the Yasuni National Park (the other side of the Napo River). The island was productive and held some special species including Grey-breasted Crake, Olive-spotted Hummingbird, Parker’s Spinetail, Lesser Hornero and Castelnau’s Antshrike. The forest trails in the National Park proved to be hard work. Our group plus Oscar made birding difficult even though we rotated the order of our group following behind Oscar. Bird activity seemed minimal and most of the species we saw were called in by disk as the territories were known to Oscar. Fortunately, he had a laser pointer which was a great help and made sure we were at least looking in the right direction. In this way we managed to see Dusky-throated Antshrike, Black, Warbling and White-shouldered Antbirds and Black-faced Ant-thrush. Our lunch stop at 13:00 was under a thatched shelter inside which the wooden benches and table were crawling with hundreds of ants. Outside was a selection of wonderful butterflies.
After lunch we spent another hour or so birding the surprisingly quiet forest trails before returning to the boat and heading back to Sacha. The walk back to the Lodge produced good views of several groups of Squirrel Monkeys.
At 16:30 we were out again for another worrying ride in the dugout canoe this time through flooded forest at the far side of the lake. Again the forest seemed quiet although we saw Rufescent Tiger-Heron, Spix’s Guan, Cream-coloured Woodpecker and Orange-crowned Manakin.
15th
Another early start with Oscar. We left the Lodge at 5:15 for our morning visit to the Canopy Hide which necessitated another trip in the canoe. The platform was constructed in the crown of a large tree about 140 feet above the ground. From here there were excellent views over the forest in all directions. Conditions were dull and misty until 09:30, but then it became hot as the sun broke through. This was some of the best birding of our stay at Sacha. On the climb to the platform we had great views of a Black-banded Owl. The list of species included Laughing Falcon, Plum-throated and Bare-necked Fruit Crows, Zimmer’s Flatbill, Spangled Cotinga, Yellow-collared Toucanet, Ivory-billed Aracari, Black-headed Parrot, Gilded and Lemon-breasted Barbet and a Purplish Jacamar. Mammals were represented by Red Howler Monkeys (seen and heard), Squirrel Monkeys and an Amazonian Dwarf Squirrel.
The platform provided little shade and so we left the hide at 10:30 to work some of the trails in the forest. Like yesterday it proved to be hard work and once again we were relying on stakeouts and the disks. Species seen included Black-banded Woodcreeper, Rusty-belted Tapaculo, Grey Antwren, Greyish Mourner , Wire-tailed Tyrant Manakin and Dwarf Tyrant Manakin. We returned to the Lodge at 11:30.
In the late afternoon we worked the trails behind the Lodge. Once again it was hard work with Straight-billed Hermit, Black-tailed Leaftosser, Black-faced Antbird and Yellow-crowned Brush-tailed Rat being amongst the highlights. We eventually reached an impressive canopy walkway suspended between metal towers which was nearing completion after nearly 3 years construction. Fortunately, the canopy walkway was not completed as it looked rather precarious. Instead, we were confined to one tower which was rather cramped. From here we saw Crimson-breasted Woodpecker, Yellow-crested Woodpecker, Lined Forest Falcon, Bat Falcon, White-throated Toucan, Blue Dacnis, Spangled Cotinga and Flame-crested Tanager. Returning to the Lodge in the fading light we were fortunate to see 3 roosting Marbled Wood-Quail huddled on a branch by the light of Oscar’s spotlight.
As we returned to the Lodge we were surprised to see a Grey-winged Trumpeter fly over and land on a roof. Unfortunately, it was not a wild bird and had probably been taken captive when young and had then escaped.
16th
Another very early start was required to reach the parrot licks at Yasuni National Park for dawn. The walk through the flooded palm forest to reach the river produced Grey-necked Wood Rail, White-eared Jacamar and a Variegated Flycatcher and the river journey produced Roadside Hawk and Drab Water Tyrant. We reached the first lick at 07:00 and although plenty of parrots were calling there were none visible. Over the next hour mixed groups of parrots assembled in trees surrounding the low cliffs. Although the odd parrot flew low over the lick it was some time before one had the confidence to land albeit briefly and then gradually the flock settled on the slope below the cliff. An impressive combination of colour and noise. Dusky-headed Parakeet was the commonest species (c100) with smaller numbers of Blue-headed Parrot, Yellow-crowned Parrot and Mealy Amazons.
In the surrounding forest we saw Thrush-like Antpitta, Cinereous Antshrike and an Amazon Red Squirrel.
We returned to the boat and explored the river edge and sandbanks. Oscar managed to spot a Ladder-tailed Nightjar sitting on a branch overhanging the river. We then landed in another part of the National Park to visit a second parrot-lick. As we approached the lick the parrots exploded off the lick in alarm and streaked off in all directions. Some even flew through the hide brushing our heads with their wings. Almost all were Cobalt-winged Parakeets.
After an hour none had returned and so we explored the nearby trails which took us through impressive primary forest. Interesting species included Great-billed Hermit, Golden-crowned Manakin, White-crowned Antwren, Yellow-browed Antbird and a Mouse-coloured Antshrike. With the weather changing we headed back to the hide and managed to reach it before the storm broke. The parrots had returned and 200 Cobalt-winged Parakeets and a single Orange-cheeked Parrot. The combination of the calling parrots, claps of thunder and torrential rain was deafening. The worst had passed by 15:00 and so we returned to the boat in light rain. As we walked back to the Lodge we looked for a sloth that had been seen the previous day but were unable to find it. We did see a Plumbeous Antbird.
After dinner at 21:15 we headed out across the lake for a night walk. The canoe crossing was even more harrowing than in daylight. The walk was not particularly successful - although we did hear a Common Potoo, saw a Black Water Catfish below the board walk and enjoyed good views of a Kinkajou running through the branches overhead. Back at the Lodge at 22:30 we finished the day by locating several small Cayman in the swamp around the main building. Their presence was betrayed by their glowing eyes.
17th
We had a lie-in today and only rose at 05:45. With limited time available we decided to look for a family of Pygmy Marmosets in a fruiting tree behind our chalets. Incredibly we managed to find them and had good views of a female and 2 young climbing up and down the trunk like squirrels. Breakfast was at 07:00 and we had to leave by 07:30. We birded on the way to the river and noted Chestnut-eared and Many-banded Aracaris, Yellow-tufted Woodpecker, Black-tailed Trogan, Wedge-billed Woodcreeper, Variegated Flycatcher and Red and Black Tanager. The two hours by boat back to Coca was quiet with Osprey, Yellow-billed Tern and Swallow-tailed Puffbird the only birds of note. At Coca we met Oscar’s wife and child before transferring to the airport and our 11:45 flight to Quito.
At Quito airport we were met by our driver Rodriguez who had already picked up our luggage from Hotel La Rabida. We set off immediately for Tandayapa Lodge which took a couple of hours to reach. The Lodge is on the western side of the Andes at an altitude of c6000 metres and is surrounded by cloud forest. The Lodge was smaller and more basic than Sacha and was reached by a demanding steep set of steps. The last thing you want at the end of a long tiring day.
After unpacking there was plenty of time to watch a confusing, but fabulous selection of hummingbirds around the feeders surrounding the patio. Over three hours, we identified 17 species of hummingbird; Tawny-bellied Hermit, Western Emerald, Andean Emerald, Brown Inca, Booted Racket-tail, Violet-tailed Sylph, Fawn-breasted Brilliant, Empress Brilliant, Rufous-tailed Hummingbird, Sparkling Violet-ear, Green Violet-ear, Buff-tailed Coronet, Green-fronted Lancebill, Purple-bibbed Whitetip, Brown Violetear, Purple-throated Woodstar and White-bellied Woodstar. Besides the hummers we also saw Red-billed Parrot, Dusky-capped Flycatcher, White-winged Becard, Brown-capped Vireo, Blue-winged Mountain Tanager and Black-capped Tanager.
18th
Next day it was back to the early starts once more with breakfast at 05:30 before we headed out to walk the trails around the Lodge. At dawn we entered a small hide and watched a pair of Immaculate Antbirds, a Chestnut-crowned Warbler and a couple of Chestnut-capped Brush-Finches feeding on insects that had been attracted to a light which had been on overnight. We then climbed up a network of narrow trails along which we saw Sickle-winged Guan, Wedge-billed Hummingbird, Crested Quetzal, Crimson-mantled Woodpecker, Long-tailed Antbird, Slaty Antwren, Plate-billed Mountain Toucan, Red-headed and Toucan Barbets, Rufous-breasted Ant-thrush and Rusty-winged Barbtail.
For me the highlights were Toucan Barbet and Plate-billed Mountain Toucan.
In the afternoon we explored the Upper Tandayapa Valley including part of the Bella Vista Cloud Forest Reserve. Despite some showers we saw a good selection of species including Speckled Hummingbird, Gorgeted Sunangel, Andean Pygmy-owl, Barred Becard, White-crested Elaenia, Western Hemispingus, Streak-necked Flycatcher, Grass-green Tanager, Rufous-chested Tanager and Dusky Bush Tanager. We managed to hear several Ocellated Tapaculos and even enticed one very close with a tape, but couldn’t obtain an acceptable view.
19th
After an early breakfast we set off for the Pedro Vicente Maldo Nado area at around 05:00. This was an area of lowland secondary forest, and was a 90-minute drive away. We spent 8 hours working the area, finally departing mid-afternoon. The main track through the forest was very dusty, and busy with lorries transporting rock from a local quarry. As much of our birding was done from this track this became very irritating.
Birding was typically slow at times, but highlights included Double-toothed Kite, Purple-crowned Fairy, Violet-bellied Hummingbird, Green Thorntail, Blue-chested Hummingbird, Choco Toucan, Pale-mandibled Araçari, Black-cheeked Woodpecker, Scarlet-backed Woodpecker, Pacific Hornero, Western Slaty Antshrike, Pacific Slaty, Snowy-throated and Grisham’s Antwrens, Lanceolated Monklet, White-bearded Manakin, Grey and Gold Tanager, Scarlet-browed Tanager and Guira Tanager. A family party of Tayras (rather martin-like) provided the only mammal interest.
We left the lowlands of Pedro Vicente early to return to an Andean Cock-of-the-Rock lek. This was in the cloud forest c6 km along the old Nono-Mindo Road, a few kilometres from Tandayapa Lodge. Despite the fast fading light and increasing amounts of low cloud we managed to reach the site in time to see at least 6 males displaying to unseen females amongst the forest canopy on the opposite side of the valley. Even in the poor light they were a superb sight.
20th
We left the Lodge at 05.30 initially retraced the route of our second afternoon at Tandayapa. The initial ‘target species’ was Ocellated Tapaculo, and we returned to where we had heard the species before. At dawn we noted Buff-bellied Nighthawk, White-throated Quail-dove, Glossy Thrush, Turquoise Jay and Plate-billed Mountain Toucan. We heard several Tapaculos and although one responded to the tape views were minimal or none at all.
We then returned to the Mindo region again. En route Hosé managed to spot a male Golden-headed Quetzal half hidden in a tree overhanging a busy main road. We stopped the vehicle and enjoyed good ‘scope views of this stunning species. We arrived in the area at 09:00, and spent the next 3 hours birding the tracks and adjacent secondary forest close to the Senderos Cloud Forest Reserve. We were at relatively low altitude here (800m), almost at the junction of the cloud forest and a drier type of forest. The list of species included Green-crowned Woodnymph, displaying Club-winged Manakins, Red-faced Spinetails and One-coloured Becard. The list of Tanagers included Grey and Gold, Bay-headed, Golden, Silver-throated, Ochre-breasted, Scarlet-throated and Dusky Bush.
Lunch was spent at the Senderos Reserve (run by the American Bird Conservancy), under a shelter with good views of the forest and adjacent hummingbird feeders. The hummingbirds were superb, and we recorded White-whiskered Hermit, Green-crowned Brilliant, Green-crowned Woodnymph, Rufous-tailed Hummingbird, Purple-crowned Fairy and Purple-bibbed Whitetip.
We moved on to explore some of the rivers in the Mindo lowlands, hoping for Torrent Ducks and White-capped Dipper, but we had no luck with either. We called in at the Restaurante Los Colibríes, where there was an excellent array of hummingbird feeders. Here we saw White-necked Jacobin and Little Woodstar, along with a Scarlet-rumped Toucanet.
Our next stop was another tourist lodge set within cloud forest in the nearby foothills. The ‘key’ species at the hummingbird feeders here was Velvet-purple Coronet, but we also recorded Empress Brilliant and a Black-chinned Tanager.. It then began to rain very hard and our journey back to Tandayapa was quite perilous in places with low cloud and heavy rain reducing visibility to a few feet in places.
21st
Another early breakfast (04:30) during which 3 large moths were noted on the windows. During the drive from Tandayapa to Yanacocha 2 female Lyre-tailed Nightjars were spotted on the road. On playing a tape a male appeared on cue and the extraordinary long tail streamers were clearly seen. One of the highlights of the day.
A long and bumpy road took us to the reserve at Yanacocha. When we arrived the sky was almost cloudless – a fantastic morning. A long walk took us along the edge of a hill before we zig-zagged down a densely-forested slope. Attempts to see OT using a tape were only partly successful. We then climbed up the slope to a viewpoint where several hummingbird feeders had been placed. We had more excellent views of hummers, including 3 Sword-billeds. By this time cloud had gathered over the volcano and was beginning to overflow into the valley. Over the volcano and where we stood wisps of cloud were moving in a circular motion – very strange. The name of the volcano is Juajua Pichinaha – it last erupted 5 years ago. Spectacled Bear occurs in the reserve.
On the drive to Quito (which was unexpectedly short) we stopped to view the sprawl of Quito with the airport right in the centre. In the sunshine it looked almost attractive. While taking photos a butterfly looking very similar to a Painted Lady was noted. Later the snow-covered summit of Cotopaxi could be seen through a gap in the clouds.
22nd
Yet another early breakfast before we drove to the Papallacta Pass. At the Pass the very cold and windy conditions and low cloud were quite a shock.
We had lunch at Guango Lodge which gave plenty of time to watch the hummers at the feeders. We continued along the Baeza Road and after some searching eventually found 2 Torrent Ducks and several dippers. Later we passed the Las Tres Marias waterfall.
We arrived at the Cabanas San Isidro (cabins) at dusk and were in time to see clouds over the nearby mountains tinted by the setting sun.
The highlights of the day were Seedsnipe and Torrent Duck.
23rd
We left the lodge at 04:30 and took a packed breakfast with us. The morning was spent along the Loreto Road. The area provided excellent birding and scenery with plenty of butterflies and a few orchids to admire. However, at times we could hear the depressing sound of a chain saw and the falling of at least one tree.
In the afternoon, we walked along a muddy trail in the forest at Guacamayoo Ridge (c2,800 m). The conditions were hot and humid, but we enjoyed more excellent birding with Black-billed Mountain Toucan, Powerful Woodpecker, Ocellated Tapaculo (at last!) and Plushcap being amongst the highlights. Our luck finally changed with OT and we enjoyed superb, prolonged and out in the open views of this bizarre looking bird.
Much of the driving was done on dirt roads interspersed with short sections of tarmac. Road repairs and rebuilding work were in progress at a number of points creating much confusion.
After dinner we tried a night drive and walk. We were hoping to see the ‘mystery’ owl, but recorded no owls at all. Instead we saw a Common Potoo and several bats.
24th
After breakfast we birded along the track that passed the cabins. Initially, the quality of the forest was good, but later much of the forest adjacent to the track had been cleared for agriculture. An interesting range of butterflies was noted. Some were attracted down to the track by the presence of horse manure and a dead rat.
After lunch (at the Lodge) we watched hummers at the feeders. We were looking for and saw Bronzy Inca. It was then time to quickly pack and reluctantly head back to Quito.
25th
This was the earliest start of the trip and there had been some early starts! We were up at 03:00, breakfasted at 03:15 and out at 03:30. Arriving at Yanacocha it was raining heavily and the whole idea of an early start seemed futile. Fortunately, the rain soon stopped and we walked 2 km in the dark, because (as expected) the reserve gates were shut. The target species, Imperial Snipe, was heard immediately, but it was a while before one was seen (albeit poorly).
We spent several hours watching the hummer feeders. Two Buff-winged Starfrontlets were observed in a confrontation. They hovered facing one another and almost appeared to be jousting. They then tumbled to the ground where one perched on the bill of another. All very extraordinary and something that our guide hadn’t seen before.
As we left the reserve most of us finally saw Brazilian Rabbit.
The bumpy drive back to Quito started along dirt roads, then cobbled roads and it was only as we reached the outskirts of Quito that we encountered tarmac. We left Yanacocha at 12:10 and were back at the hotel by 13:15.
We then had a few hours before it was time to take a taxi to the airport and fly (via Guayaquil and Madrid) back to London. Air Iberia did their best to make the return journey as frustrating as possible, but that is another story.